Burial in Greece: Not Exactly the End of the Story
A new project for a blog called The First cemetery of Athens: Fables of Identity (1) has meant visiting Athens’ First Cemetery
quite a lot lately to identify the graves of the famous and their imposing monuments.
It is a wonderful place, on the surface anyway.
But there is
a dark underside to all that glorious marble and beautiful foliage and it is
this: in Greece today, many of the dead do not stay buried for long…
Greeks often use the word Nekrotafio (meaning the burial of the dead) for cemeteries, although the word koimiterio (κοιμητήριο) from which our word cemetery is derived, is more apt, expressing the Christian idea more clearly. It means a sleeping place.
The Orthodox dead are not quite dead. Their souls do not go to Purgatory like the Catholics. Purgatory is not in the Orthodox lexicon; their actual status after death is somewhat mysterious, like so many concepts in Orthodoxy. There is, however, the idea that the dead can be affected by our prayers and certainly our prayers for the dead can even affect to some extent their ultimate fate when judgment day finally arrives. In this sense, those buried are connected with the living and the Church until the Second Coming (Parousia) when their bodies will be reunited with their souls in heaven.
For this
reason, many ceremonies are held at the grave sites of the dead
during the first year and usually on the anniversary of the death thereafter.
Cremation is
forbidden by the Orthodox Church for reasons that made sense a
long time ago: that, because of the Incarnation, the flesh was also made
immortal and because cremation was a pagan practice and therefore, by
definition, bad. The echoes of Hell fire and brimstone involved in the cremation
of remains did not make the idea very attractive to new Christians either.
According to
any Orthodox website (2), the Church supports
the idea of the inviolability of the body and therefore insists on inhumation
with all of the attendant services and respect shown for the dead. That
was fine, I suppose, in the days when the dead stayed buried…
Today
Population
growth and crowded cities have changed burial customs radically.
Now, in Greece, a family has the choice: either pay for a permanent grave site (3) in the local cemetery (usually a family grave) or rent a grave for three years and then
exhume the body, wash the bones in wine, and place them in an ossuary in the
cemetery – usually for another fee, in city cemeteries anyway.
Even the
purchase of a family grave does not ensure that the body rests in peace. When there is a new death in the family and
space is limited, the body is dug up. In the case of a single family grave, the
bones might be placed in a sack at the foot of the new coffin until burial
number three (don’t ask why), or the bones are gathered and placed in an
ossuary. I had what I can only call the macabre experience of seeing my father-in-law’s thigh bones sticking out of a gunny sack at one end of the grave,
newly opened for my mother-in-law.
A Large Family Grave in the First cemetery of Athens
A large family grave, like those in the First Cemetery in Athens, is built
with future burials in mind and a large underground room is built with small
drawer like spaces in the walls to accommodate the bones of loved ones if the
space for many full sized coffins is too small.
So, even in the case of a family grave, the bodies are
disturbed, rendered into pieces, boxed – then placed in the vault in acceptably
small packages (the thigh bones determine the size of the new container).
Rent a Grave
In big cities
like Athens, most people rent a grave for three years –
the time it is estimated that a body needs to disintegrate. Then there are hard
choices. Usually the marble surrounding the grave is reusable and the headstone
detachable so that, if, for a suitable fee, a small square plot is available,
the body, neatly packaged, is reburied and the original headstone reused over
the tiny grave.
The other choice, as mentioned above, is to place the
bones in the ossuary on site or in special
squares very much like safety deposit boxes placed inside the cemetery
walls – for a fee.
Problems No One Wants To Discuss
With the
advent of wonder drugs, bodies no longer disintegrate on demand. The disinterment at the three
year mark, must legally be attended by a family member (a priest is optional –
cemeteries are run by the municipality and, in fact, are a municipal business)
and, quite often, the grave diggers have bad news: the body is not quite ready. The same grave can then be
rented by the month (at quite a large fee in big cemeteries) until nature has
done its work, or the body can be temporarily reburied in a less expensive spot
until nature allows the transference of bones to an ossuary – or the body can
be abandoned – in which case, it will be buried in a common grave with some
disintegrating agent and that is that - not quite the respect for the human
body envisioned by the Orthodox Church.
Most of my Greek friends do not like to talk about
this (death and taxes!). In fact talking about death is a no no, accompanied by spitting against the evil eye, but because of
my new project with my friend Filia on the First Cemetery of Athens, the
subject has come up enough to make talking about their own painful family
experiences possible. The truth is that many people feel compelled to abandon
their loved one’s body after three years whereas wealthier members of the
population can afford to purchase a lifetime single grave site and stay buried.(4)
The economic crisis has made abandoning bones to a
common and unidentified grave an even more likely choice.
If people do not pay, the bones are exhumed by the
cemetery and the gravesite re-allotted. I was disturbed by what I saw on my way
up to Section Four one day at the back of Agioi Theodorioi Church in The First
Cemetery.
I am assuming these are the bones of those who could
not pay. But what is curiouser (aside from the venue in a shed) is that all the
bones in the box appear to be the same size. I am flummoxed… Any ideas?
Time for the Church to Rethink Burial Customs
There is a lot of bitterness today about these
temporary burials, their cost, and the gut wrenching necessity of attending
these exhumations.
Although a
crematorium has been on the books for Athens and Patras for several years now,
the Church has said it will not bury
cremated bodies with Orthodox honours because
that would be a desecration the body.
Obviously, there is a tremendous gulf between the
religious theory behind inhumation
and the present reality. Some might call
it hypocrisy – especially after attending the disinterment of a child or
parent.
Cemeteries in Greece are run by the municipalities and
are a business. Even a huge cemetery like The First Cemetery in Athens has no resident priest. They are brought in for
the funeral service and have no legal say in how the cemetery is run. But I
have yet to find a priest who has expressed any real distress over disinterment
although they are most often present -invited by the family (for a fee) to give
the ordeal the dignity of a religious rite of passage.
The implications of disinterment versus the ‘sacredness’
of the human body is just not on the
Church’s radar - and it should be.
It is time for a change.
Footnotes
(1) The new blog ‘The First cemetery of Athens’ by Filia Xilas Pattakou and myself
is scheduled to be up and running in June 2016!
(2) http://www.goarch.org/ourfaith/sanctity-of-human-life says: Because the Orthodox Faith
affirms the fundamental goodness of creation, it understands the body to be an
integral part of the human person and the temple of the Holy Spirit, and
expects the resurrection of the dead. The Church considers cremation to be the
deliberate desecration and destruction of what God has made and ordained for
us. The Church instead insists that the body be buried so that the natural
physical process of decomposition may take place. The Church does not grant
funerals, either in the sanctuary, or at the funeral home, or at any other
place, to persons who have chosen to be cremated. Additionally, memorial
services with kolyva (boiled wheat) are not allowed in such instances, inasmuch
as the similarity between the “kernel of wheat” and the “body” has been intentionally
destroyed.
(3) A permanent grave in one of the best parts of
the First Cemetery in Athens can cost as much as 100.000 euros – in a less
prominent part, perhaps 25,000. See http://www.kathimerini.gr/337028/article/epikairothta/ellada/h-varia-viomhxania-toy-pen8oys